This article covers the basic equipment, information, and skills required to successfully engage in practical long-range rifle shooting. Keep in mind that this is an article and not real training, and there is no substitute for getting out there and learning from each shot.

It is divided into three sections. The first is about the rifle and gear. The second discusses trajectory and optics selection in depth. The third explains how to put everything together to make hits on targets in the field.


Practical rifle shooting pits accuracy against time pressure. Jimmy Holdsworth engages multiple targets with his AI-AWM on a military slant-sniper course.
PRACTICAL LONG RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING Article Series:

PART I: THE RIFLE & GEAR - priorities, cost, calibers, rifles, ammunition, scopes, range-finders, ancillary gear, spotting, data

PART II: OPTICS - ballistics, elevation, wind, lead, data cards, dialing elevation, parallax, first focal plane vs. second focal plane, elevation adjustment & travel, clicks, zero-stop, single- vs. multi-turn knobs, bullet-drop compensators (BDC), tube diameter, reticle features, MIL vs. MOA, reticle illumination, brightness, magnification, objective size, specific recommendations

PART III: SHOOTING - zeroing, finding a range, targets and placement, packing up, arrival, target location, positioning, making scope adjustments, engagement, follow-up, shooter/spotter communication, efficiency

What Is Practical Long-Range Rifle Shooting?
Practical precision rifle shooting involves engaging small and/or distant targets at the limit of weapon, ammunition, and shooter capability under time pressure in field settings.

Applications include but are not limited to: very small targets 1/4"-1" at 100 to 200 yards, so-called "cold bore" shots, arbitrary unknown distance targets, moving targets, ranging, shooter/spotter communication, and combinations of all of those under time constraints.

Generally, these include everything a rifleman is likely to find in any "sniper", "tactical", or "field" rifle match. The typical platform is a bolt action rifle, though an auto-loader of sufficient accuracy and appropriate caliber can do the job with some trade-offs.

For our purposes, consider "long range" to reach to the load's trans-sonic boundary (the point at which the bullet slows to 15 to 20 percent faster than Mach 1). For example, with typical 308 loads and rifles, we are interested in ranges from 25 yards out to about 700-1100 yards, depending on ambient conditions and the particular load.

US Optics Inc
It's About Making Hits, Not Having Perfect Gear
All of the questions discussed in this article have been and will continue to be debated to death on the internet, at the hunting camp, and at the gun-shop. Equipment choices are important, but not something to obsess over. It is more important to get some quality gear and get shooting, than it is to get paralyzed with indecision due to too many choices, or change equipment too often to get good.

Remember, long-range practical shooting is about making hits in the field. Practice and skill are more important than equipment.


Buying high-quality equipment the first time around rarely brings regrets.
Pay Once For Good Gear - It's Worth It
Some of the equipment discussed in this article is expensive-- really expensive. Let's get this out of the way: long range shooting is not cheap, but the rifles and optics are not where the expense lies. Long range shooting is expensive because it requires a lot of practice to become really good, and practice means time and ammunition.

Many people balk at spending $1000 or more on a rifle or scope. This is misguided. Spending money for good equipment in these two areas especially are some of the best places to spend money in a precision rifle system. Along with the rifle action, stock, and mounts, these costs are fixed over the life of the rifle. The cost of training, ammunition, and barrels dramatically eclipses those fixed costs.

To illustrate the point, let's analyze the cost of training with a high-end factory precision rifle (AI-AE) using a top of the line S&B or US Optics scope for 5 years. A rifleman with a moderate but regular training schedule might shoot 3000 per year. If he is shooting 308, a realistic barrel life might be 8000 rounds. Over the 5 years, that will be 15,000 rounds and 2 barrels. For ammunition, we will use a conservative estimate of what reloaded ammunition might cost. Let's assume he takes 2 rifle classes in that period, travels to one large match per year, and uses one tank of gas per month practicing locally.

         Rifle purchase cost           $2500 (not counting first barrel)
         Scope purchase cost           $2100
                                             Fixed Cost Total        $4600
         Two replacement barrels       $1200
         15,000 reloads                $6000
                                              Consumables Cost Total $7200
         Two classes enrollment        $1600
	 Two classes travel & lodging  $2000
         Five major match entry fee    $ 875
	 Five matches travel & lodging $5000
	 Five local matches per year
           entry & gas money           $2400
	                                     Total Training Cost   $11,875
It's clear that both consumable costs and training costs will totally eclipse the fixed rifle and optics costs by a factor of four over a five year period. If you plan on shooting regularly to achieve a superior level of proficiency, it makes sense to buy the best rifle and scope you possibly can. To put it another way, why make a $500 compromise when selecting the rifle or scope when it could put the $1000 you've invested in a rifle class or national match at risk?
Caliber Selection

.50 BMG, .338 Lapua Magnum, .308 Winchester, and 5.56 NATO.
Caliber selection is one of the most-debated questions about long-range shooting. There are many good choices, and many of them will perform similarly.

There are two primary factors related to caliber which affect long-range performance. The first is the bullet's Ballistic Coefficient (BC), a measure of how easily the bullet slips through the air. Higher BC is better. The second is the muzzle velocity. Faster is better.

Bullet selection is critical for long-range shooting. Select the bullet which has the highest BC possible, provided the muzzle velocity is not too low. Here is a breakdown of how different BC's rate:

	higher than 0.70: Best
	higher than 0.60: Excellent
	higher than 0.50: Good
	higher than 0.40: Merely OK
Once a high-BC bullet is selected, it's always better to shoot it faster, but there are diminishing returns faster than 3000 fps. Bullet weight combined with muzzle velocity tend to indicate "overbore" calibers-- cartridges which have a high proportion of powder to bore area. This measure is important because overbore calibers wear out barrels faster than calibers which use less powder. For example, .300 Winchester Magnum has more powder capacity than .308 Winchester, but both can shoot the same bullets. The .300 will wear out a barrel faster than the .308.

Jensen Arms

The baseline caliber choice is .308 Winchester. It shoots a 0.51 BC bullet at 2650 - 2850 fps, and has very long barrel life (8000+ rounds). Recoil is mild. Factory "match" ammunition is available everywhere for reasonable prices. Calibers with better long-range performance will have the liabilities of: more expensive ammunition, shorter barrel life, increased blast and recoil, and in some cases the necessity of reloading.

To achieve better long-range performance, the velocity or BC must be improved. For long-range performance, generally bullets that are "heavy" for the caliber will provide the best BC, but this is not always true when comparing bullets of different design.

Summary table of other good long-range calibers. It is important that "match" or "VLD" bullet types be selected. These are generally of the boat-tail hollow-point design, have more consistent accuracy than hunting designs, and have higher BC values.


This AI AW has been rechambered in .260 Remington for better long-range ballistics.
  Caliber       Preferred Bullet Weight Velocity
  * 6mm:
      243 Winchester         107-115gr, 3000-3100fps
      6XC                    107-115gr, 2850-2950fps
  * 6.5mm:
      260 Remington          120-142gr, 2700-3000fps
      260 Remington Ackley   139-142gr, 2850-2950fps
      6.5-284 Norma          139-142gr, 2950-3050fps
  * 7mm:
      7mm Remington Magnum   162-180gr, 2900-3050fps
      7mm WSM                162-180gr, 2850-3000fps
      284 Winchester         150-168gr, 2700-2800fps
      280 Remington          162-180gr, 2750-2860fps
  * .30:
      .30-06                 175-210gr, 2660-2960fps
      .300 Winchester Magnum 190-210gr, 2850-3050fps
      .300 WSM               175-210gr, 2750-3000fps   
  * .338
      .338 Lapua Magnum      250-300gr, 2700-3000fps
If you can only have one long-range precision rifle, it should be in .308 Winchester. Match-grade .308 ammunition is available everywhere, reloading recipes are well known and reloading it is easy, and in many rifles, the surplus 7.62x51 NATO ammunition from some countries will shoot 1.5 MOA or better, which is good enough for short-range (400 yards and closer) practice from less steady shooting positions such as offhand, kneeling, over barricades, or shooting at movers.

I am going to recommend three other calibers to use for practical long-range shooting. The first is .260 Remington. It fits in the same rifles and actions as 308, but has less recoil and superior external ballistics. The second is 7mm Remington Magnum. The last is .338 Lapua Magnum. There are a lot of other calibers that perform well at long range, but these additional three provide good stepping points of increased performance.

The Magnum calibers such as 7RM, 300WM, and 338 Lapua will provide improved ballistics, but at the expense of ammunition cost, barrel life, and increased recoil. The box magazines for these calibers hold fewer rounds than the short-action .308-based calibers. Follow-up shots will be slower due to the increased recoil and bolt cycling distance.


These two rifles shoot into one hole at 100 yards - a little better than 0.5 MOA - and that translates to three or four-inch groups at 940 yards.
Rifle Selection Criteria
In order to make long-range hits, the rifle itself has to do several things:

Accuracy. It has to have sufficient mechanical accuracy. For the purposes of practical long-range shooting as discussed in this article, 1 MOA is sufficient. This is sufficient to hit a 10" circle at 1000 yards, or an IPSC silhouette target's "head" (6x6") at 600 yards. Obviously more accuracy is always better, and a half-MOA rifle is preferable to a 1 MOA rifle. In most cases, the error in wind estimation and subsequent wind changes will subsume the difference between a 1/4 MOA and 1 MOA rifle (at least for windage error). Most of the accuracy comes from a good barrel.

Long-range accuracy depends on external trajectory just as much as 100-yard "mechanical" accuracy, so velocity is important. Everything else equal, a longer barrel will give more velocity and be better at making long-range hits. For a rifle intended to make 1000-yard shots, I recommend at least 24" barrel length for short-action calibers such as 308 or 260. Going to 26" is even better. For the magnum or long-action calibers like 300WM, 7RM, 6.5-284, or 338 Lapua, a 26-28" barrel will be a better choice, and it will yield more gain in those additional inches than you would see in the smaller calibers.


This Surgeon rifle chambered in .260 Remington was designed specifically to fit shooter Chuck Ward and his requirements.

Ergonomics. The rifle has to fit the shooter, accommodating a comfortable and stress-free position while shooting from various common positions. Stock setup and scope positioning are critical for proper eye relief for full field of view through the scope. When these are set right, the shooter can get on the gun and obtain a fire-able sight-picture without muscle strain. The other related adjustment is the length of pull, from butt-stock to trigger. The best way to make sure the ergonomics of the rifle will fit you is to get an adjustable stock. It should be adjustable for length (typically add pads or shims on the buttstock) and it should have an adjustable-height cheek comb. The McMillan A-5, and the Accuracy International AICS stocks are both excellent choices.

Controls. The controls required to operate and shoot the rifle should be easy to actuate. The most important two controls are the trigger and, for a bolt-action rifle, the bolt. The trigger can be of a single-stage or two-stage design, based on shooter preference, and should break at 2-4 lbs. The bolt should be able to be operated to cycle the action without the shooter having to move from his shooting position. The sight picture should be retained through the bolt cycle. The safety needs to be operable and reasonably easy to switch. A bipod, if used, should be easy to deploy and stow, for quick setup at a shooting position.

Magazine. Most conventional bolt-action rifles have a blind magazine which loaded one round at a time from the top. This is OK for shooting single rounds one after another when there is little or no time pressure, and you have some way to carry the extra rounds. For the last 25 years, many issued sniper rifles have used detachable box magazines (DBM), similar to magazines for the AR-15 or M14. These can be an asset to a practical long-range rifle when the shooter must engage multiple targets quickly, or wants to be able to send follow-up shots with minimal delay. They also facilitate unloading the rifle more quickly.


There are many rifles which will get the job done to 1000 yards. Three of these are based on a Remington 700, two Accuracy International, one M1A.

The best DBM system for bolt-action rifles right now comprises the Accuracy International magazines for short or long-action calibers, in either an AICS stock or a Remington-700-series stock (when fitted with the Badger "bottom metal" AICS magazine adapter). Both the SAKO and AI factory rifles come with DBM systems already, and need no conversion. The H.S. Precision DBM system has proved unreliable and I recommend avoiding it.

Rifles
Basic / Economy. On the basic end are factory rifles like the Savage 10FP and Remington 700 PSS. These are sporter rifles with heavy barrels and target-style stocks. Their triggers need adjustment and/or tuning for a nice 2-4# break, and they need a scope base installed. Most of these rifles will shoot better than 1 MOA with some factory match ammunition, but a few will be lemons. The most likely problems will be poor ergonomic fit due to stock design. All the problems can be fixed with money spent replacing the stock, adding a detachable box magazine, adding a good trigger, replacing the barrel with a premium match barrel, getting the action trued, etc. You should be able to get a 10FP or 700 PSS for under $700, then add a base and rings, a scope and a bipod.

Custom. There are many gunsmiths who build precision long-range rifles. The vast majority of these are based on the Remington 700 action, with real performance improvements done to them, and some frills. Some are based on better actions such as the Surgeon, which has a Picatinny rail machined right into the top of the receiver. The builders I recommend are GA Precision, KMW Precision, and Surgeon Rifles. These guys all have impeccable records and deliver a lot of well-built rifles for practical long-range shooting.


Factory sniper rifles from Accuracy International and Sako are good-to-go from the box.
The advantage of one of these over the high-end factory rifles (listed next) is that you can get it made exactly to your specs. Expect to pay $3000-4500 for one of these rifles.

High-end Factory. The other option is a high-end factory rifle. These are generally rifles designed from the ground up for military sniper duty, and sold on the commercial market as well. The most notable are the Arctic Warfare line from Accuracy International (U.K.), and the TRG line from Sako (Finland). The quality and accuracy of these rifles are basically the same as the custom rifles mentioned, but they are factory pieces and generally have a "system" of accessories to go along with them, as well as having a logistics trail already. Replacement parts are stocked items, not custom one-offs. $3000-5500.

Most new long-range rifle shooters will be able to shoot a long time and learn a lot using the basic Remington 700 or Savage 10FP, if they get the rifle to fit them and mount quality optics on it. For the shooter that never wants to question if his equipment has let him down, the AI AW, Sako TRG, or high-end custom rifle from GAP, KMW, or Surgeon is the way to go. Putting more money in a better rifle is an investment that will pay off down the line.

CSGunWorks

Ammunition
There are basically two choices. You can buy factory ammunition, or you can shoot hand-loads. In some calibers, there are no really good factory loads appropriate for long-range shooting, so you effectively have to reload.

The best sources of factory ammunition for long-range shooting are: the Gold Medal Match line from Federal, and Black Hills Ammunition. .308 Winchester has the most factory match-grade ammunition available, so if ammo supply will be a problem and you cannot reload, .308 is definitely the caliber to choose.

Here is a cautionary note for .308 Winchester ammunition selection for long-range use. The .308 can deliver good thousand-yard performance, but only with careful selection of ammunition, specifically the bullet used and the muzzle velocity. Those two together must be sufficient to keep the bullet solidly supersonic when shot through the current ambient atmospheric conditions. Specifically, standard 150gr FMJ and even some match bullets have BC values too low to reliably stay supersonic at this range. In denser atmospheric conditions, they may produce poor accuracy or even strike the target sideways. The 168gr SMK bullet is known for producing variable results at 1000 yards. There are better choices for .308 bullet selection, so just don't use the 168gr SMK. The Sierra MatchKing bullets heavier than 175gr will work. Any of the Berger VLD bullets heavier than 168gr should work. The best choice is the 155gr Lapua Scenar, if it shoots accurately from your barrel. This bullet has a BC value as high as the 175gr SMK, but can be shot 100-200fps faster from most barrels.

Reloading is financially compelling. Where factory match might be $18 a box of 20, by saving your brass and reloading, you can save 50-75% of the cost. That translates into more shooting for less money. The other benefit is that you can tailor a load for your specific rifle that suits your needs.

There are some excellent long-range calibers for which factory match-grade long-range ammunition is not available, or is available only in very small quantities or for a very high price. These include all of the calibers discussed above except for .308, 300 WM, and .338 Lapua. If you own a rifle in a caliber for which good long-range ammunition is not available, you have committed to quite a bit of load development and reloading time.

When given a choice in components, I recommend choosing Lapua cases (brass) if they are available in that caliber. After Lapua, try Norma, then Winchester, then whatever you can get. Bullet selection was covered before, but some good candidates are bullets from Lapua, Berger, and Sierra. For powder type, I prefer to use powers from Hodgdon's "Extreme" line, including H4831SC, Varget, Retumbo. There is always some experimentation involved in developing "THE" load for your long-range rifle.


Rifle optics are key to making long-range hits. It pays to buy quality the first time.
Rifle Scope Selection
I cover rifle scope selection criteria extensively in my article, OPTICS FOR PRACTICAL LONG-RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING. Four recommendations:

Leupold Mark 4, 3.5-10x40mm, M1 or M2 knobs, mil-dot or mil-hash reticle. This is the baseline optic I recommend. Leupold tactical scopes are proven, solid, and provide the basic features you need for practical long-range shooting. Get the "First Focal" version if you can afford it. The 4.5-15x50mm version is a good choice too. Buy used if you don't have enough money yet. $800-1200.

Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50mm. The Nightforce scopes have glass a little better than the Leupold, and are more sturdily built. Downside- no first-focal reticle option. $1100 - 1400.

US Optics SN3, 3.2-17x44mm. Get metric knobs and a mildot or mil-hash reticle. Get the EREK knob for elevation. These scopes are heavy, but sturdy. They are made in California and USO has good customer service. $1800-2400.

Schmidt & Bender PMII, 3-12x50mm. Get metric knobs and P4 or P4-Fine reticle. A plain mildot is available in the P3 reticle, but the P4 is an improvement. This scope is built like a tank, has super clear and bright optics, has a zero stop, is available in all "metric" (mil-based reticle and knob clicks). With optics this clear, 3-12x is enough to make hits to 1000-1200 yards, and the 3-12 is a nice compact scope. S&B also has a 4-16 available, and a 5-25. The 5-25 is an excellent choice for a long-range Magnum intended for shooting 1-3 MOA targets 1000-1500 yards. $2000-2700.

Scope Mount Selection

This TRG-42 uses US Optics 35mm rings on a Warne 20 MOA incline base.
A precise scope and accurate rifle are of no use separately. The scope mount is key to the accuracy and capabilities of the entire system. Most rifles have a receiver which is tapped for mounts, upon which rings are mounted, and finally the scope goes in the rings. For long-range rifles, most people use a single or two-piece base which provides a Picatinny rail surface. Standard Picatinny rings are bolted to this rail, and the rings hold the scope.

Some rifles and receivers have an integral Picatinny rail, such as the AR-10, SR-25, and Surgeon rifle receiver. These designs remove the need for a separate base; the rings are bolted straight to the receiver.

There are mounts for Picatinny rails and proprietary receivers which are a "unified" mount. Instead of having two separate rings, the two ring bases are machined from a single piece of metal, and there is no need for separate rings and bases. The advantage of a unified mount is that there are fewer connectors to come loose and less weight for the same strength or rigidity.

Mounts, receivers, or unified mounts can provide a scope mounting incline angle, usually called an "MOA base", referring to a downward angle relative to the bore axis. This is used to utilize more of the scope's internal adjustment ("click") range, and is discussed in detail in OPTICS FOR PRACTICAL LONG-RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING.


"Milling" targets is difficult and prone to error.
Range-Finder Selection
Knowing the range of the target is critical to making long-range hits. Between 500 and 1000 yards, the best .308 Winchester loads are dropping at one inch every four yards forward travel, up to one inch every yard forward travel. For example, at 700 yards, it drops at about 1/2" per yard. If a target is 16" in diameter (a pretty large target) and the shooter aims at the center, he has 8" of vertical error margin.

This margin is used up by rifle and shooter accuracy, accuracy of "data book" drop values compared to current real conditions and load, and ranging error. If we look only at ranging error, that 8" of error margin translates into 16 yards. In other words, the estimated range which is used to look up the drop value, must be within plus or minus 16 yards of the real value. If his range estimate is 25 yards short, the bullet will be 12.5" low, and it will miss the target.

There are basically two methods to range long-distance targets. The first method is to "mil" the targets, which means that if the shooter knows the physical dimensions of a distant object, he can use reticle features to compare the apparent size, and use that information to calculate the object's distance. This is the most basic skill and something that every long-range shooter should know how to do, but is error-prone because of three main reasons: 1. object dimensions are not always known, or known accurately; 2. accurately measuring the object's apparent size in the reticle (in mils or MOA), is not precise; and 3. doing math in the field under time pressure is error prone. (I will cover milling targets in a later section of this article series.)

The other common method to determine target distance is to use a laser range finder (LRF). These work by bouncing an infra-red (invisible) laser beam off the object and using a computer to turn the time it took to get there and back into a distance in yards or meters. Laser range finders generally work pretty will within their maximum range in good optical conditions, but their performance will degrade when target reflectivity is low, there is sun flare, or the line of sight is not clear.


The Laser Range-finder (LRF) is a key tool for determining target distance
Both monocular and binocular laser range-finders are available. A monocular only has one optic that you can look through, just like a rifle scope or camera, but the binoculars operate like regular binoculars except they have a laser range-finder built in. Binocular LRFs are better for spotting and target location, but they are larger and more expensive.

I recommend four range-finders:

Burris 7x40 binocular, max 1500 yards. This LRF has relatively poor optics and is large, but it ranges well. $650.

Leica 1200 / 1200 Scan monocular, max 1200 yards. This LRF has good optics and is nice and compact. $650. If pressed for price, the 1200 and 1200 Scan models can be found for as cheap as $350 used. This is the best buy.

Leica Geovid binoculars, 8x or 10x magnification, max 1300 yards. This LRF has great optics and ranges well, but is large. It is the ultimate tool for target location, spotting, and ranging within 1000 yards. $1800 - 2100.

Swarovski 8x Laser Guide monocular, max 2000 yards. This LRF has good optics and is nice and compact. It ranges further than anything under $6000. Price is $900 new, $700 used. To get 2x the ranging ability, you have to spend at least 10x the cost of the range-finder. If you regularly need to range targets from 800-2000 yards, this is the best choice. Its only downside is the large reticle which is hard to pinpoint on targets.

Lapua

Suggested Packages
Here are some suggested packages at different price points. Note that I bias money spent towards optics, meaning that I tend to "upgrade" optics before I upgrade other components. All the options here are listed for .308 Winchester because it is the ideal "starter" long-range cartridge. Similar or identical options are available in the other calibers listed earlier. Cheapest to most expensive:


"RayDog" Sanchez had this .308 built on a Surgeon action by Surgeon's owner Preston Pritchett. It is fitted with a US Optics SN3 and a JET model suppressor.
Savage 10FP or Remington 700 PSS in 308 Winchester. Take the rifle in factory configuration, add Badger or Leupold bases and rings. Use a 20 or 30 MOA base. Add a used Leupold Mark 4 3.5-10x40mm scope. If you can't afford the Leupold, the Tasco 10x42 "Super Sniper" at about $300 is reported to be the best buy in that price range. Get a Harris S-BR bipod, and a basic sling. Shoot Federal Gold Medal Match ("FGMM") 175gr or Black Hills 175gr ammunition. Find a use Leica LRF 900 or 1200 for around $300.

I recommend against "upgrades." 99% of these factory rifles will shoot 1 MOA with the FGMM or Black Hills ammunition from the box. If the trigger is very heavy, get a local gunsmith to set it to 4 lbs. Fix the ergonomics of the stock as best you can, and then get started shooting. You should be able to get all this for under $1000, or no more than $1500.

Custom Rifle from GA Precision, KMW Precision, or Surgeon Rifles in 308 Winchester. Have it built on a Surgeon action, and put in either a McMillan A-5 stock or an Accuracy International AICS stock. (In the case of the McMillan, have it fitted with Badger "bottom metal" for the AICS magazines.) Get Badger or Seekins Precision rings. Buy the best scope you can just barely afford-- the S&B PMII 3-12 (or 4-16); the USO SN3 3.2-17x44mm; or the Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50mm. In the case of the S&B or USO, get a metric reticle (mildot or mil-hash) and metric knob clicks (0.1 mil). Shoot the Lapua 155gr Scenar in either factory loads from Lapua, or your own reloads. Buy the Leica Geovids or Swarovski laser range-finder.

High-end Factory from Accuracy International. Buy a factory AI-AW .308 Winchester, 26" barrel with factory brake, "2.0" chassis configuration (folder). Do not get the factory Picatinny rail. Mount a S&B PMII in the single-piece AI scope mount directly to the receiver. Use the AI bipod. Shoot the Lapua 155gr Scenar in either factory loads from Lapua, or your own reloads. You'll have no excuses. Buy the Leica Geovids or Swarovski laser range-finder.


It's tempting to bring a lot of gear, but you'll pay for the extra weight. Packing light has advantages.
Ancillary Rifle Equipment
When shooting in the field, I recommend having the following additional equipment:

Good bipod. The Harris bipod is the standard choice for Remington-style systems. The height should start out low enough to get the lowest comfortable prone position you will use, and the legs should telescope up for more height when it is needed. The Parker-Hale-style bipod have certain advantages, mainly they are quicker and easier to deploy, stow, and operate one-handed, and they have more play and yaw which prevents "hopping feet" which can be a problem with Harris bipods. The SAKO TRG bipod is very stable, but only works on the TRG rifles.

Sling. A good sling is mandatory for carrying the rifle while hiking cross-country, and can be an effective shooting aide when shooting from positions other than prone off the bipod.

Rear beanbag. Many shooters use a small "beanbag" for use under the rear of the stock. This is a handy way to add stabilization to prone positions. Instead of using sand or real beans, the best ones for field use are filled with pea-sized plastic bead filler, which makes them lightweight and not affected by water (wet beans or rice are Not Good).

Backpack. A small to medium sized backpack is useful for "hike and shoot" field events, or just carrying the gear you need along with the rifle. It can also be used as an improvised front or rear rifle rest in improvised positions. I normally carry: rear bag, ammunition, binoculars, laser range-finder, some water, and rain-gear in my pack. This isn't that much stuff and there's no reason to go overboard. I recommend Kifaru packs because they are bomb-proof, comfortable, and made here in Colorado USA. Most "3 Day Assault Packs" are about the right size. My preferred pack is the Kifaru Express.

Suppressor. I strongly recommend using a sound suppressor when shooting rifles. They smooth out the recoil impulse, make things quieter, allow easier shooter/spotter communication, and reduce recoil. In calibers smaller than 338 Lapua, a suppressor will have less recoil than a good muzzle brake, and will be much much quieter.

Binoculars. Binoculars are useful for target location and spotting. If you anticipate difficulty in locating targets and do not have a LRF binocular, I recommend bringing a decent set of regular binoculars. If target location won't be too hard or you are skilled at it, you can do without. I have been very impressed by my set of Leica Ultravids (10x42), but any decent set should work.

Shooting Sticks. Shooting sticks provide an adjustable-height support which is useful for improvised positions in the field, when your bipod won't go as high as you need to make the shot. Stoney Point makes good ones, for $40-60.


A shooting mat and heavy spotting scope are nice, but not usually practical to carry in the field.
Spotting Equipment
If shooting with a partner, it is most convenient to spot your partner's shots simply looking through your rifle scope, and vice versa. Using a set of binoculars, a binocular LRF, or even a LRF monocular are alternatives. In the field, it often does not make sense to haul around a large, high-magnification spotting scope and a tripod to hold it steady. A stationary spotting scope setup which might weigh 4-8 lbs is very effective, but probably better left to stationary shooting, not hiking around.
Ballistic Data
The last key piece of "equipment" required is not an object, it is DATA. Ballistic data is key to making long-range hits. This can be generated by one of the ballistic calculator computer programs such as Sierra Infinity, Exbal, or JBM, or the shooter can get a set of data for his cartridge (or a reasonably similar cartridge) and shoot on a known-distance range at intervals to generate data for his rifle. External ballistics has been a studied for over a hundred years and the programs we have today to predict the trajectory are pretty much "right on", provided that the input data plugged in is good. With a solid 100-yard zero and a data-sheet from the computer, numerous shooters have made first-round hits at 500, 700, and 1000 yards, at least,

The key inputs are: bullet ballistic coefficient (BC), muzzle velocity (MV), sight center over bore center distance, zero distance (100 yards recommended), and environmental conditions (station pressure and/or altitude, temperature and humidity).


I print out data cards to 1000 yards, fold them in half to make use of all the card space, laminate them, and tie them to my scope mount.
I recommend using only one load for a single rifle-- just pick the best long-range load. If it performs well (1 MOA or better) at 100 yards, this a good start. You will need a data-sheet for any different environmental conditions in which you will shoot. A good rule of thumb is that a different sheet will be helpful for every 1000' altitude or 20 degrees temperature. You can get by if you know how the trajectory changes at say 1000 yards for changes in these, but it's helpful to have the different sheets in your data-book for reference.

For example, my .308 load changes approximately 1 click (0.1 mil) at 1000 yards every 500' density altitude change (density altitude is a combination of station pressure and temperature rolled into one number). Knowing this rule of thumb, I don't need a sheet for every single change in altitude or temperature-- I can use the sheet I have and apply the rule. But if I am travelling to a much higher or lower location, I will print out a new card for that location.

The article OPTICS FOR PRACTICAL LONG-RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING has an overview of rifle trajectory and what a data-card looks like. I normally use a short piece of shoestring or para-cord to tie the "current" data-card to the scope body. This prevents it from getting lost or blowing away, and is right where I can reach to look at it while on the gun.


You can skip to PRACTICAL LONG RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING - PART II: OPTICS or finish up this section with sample data cards.
CSGunWorks

Data Cards for Common Loads
Here are data-cards for some common long-range loads, calibrated for 1000' altitude and 60 degrees. The data here should be close, but keep in mind that if the load shoots faster or slower in your rifle, it will be off. Likewise, if you are not shooting at 1000' 60F, there will be more drop the lower altitude or colder temperature, and less drop the higher altitude or hotter temperature.

For each distance, there is the: drop in inches, drop in MOA, drop in mils; then wind in inches for 10mph cross, wind in MOA, wind in mils. To save space in the article, I printed data ever 50 yards. For an actual data-card, I recommend print data every 20 or 25 yards.

Want a set of cards from DEMIGOD LLC? Click here

308 WIN 175gr SMK: 2650fps
308 WIN 175gr SMK: 2650fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    0.75   0.2mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   1"   0.75   0.2mil  100
 150    1"    0.75   0.2mil  |   2"   1.00   0.3mil  150
 200    4"    1.75   0.5mil  |   3"   1.25   0.4mil  200
 250    8"    3.00   0.9mil  |   4"   1.75   0.5mil  250
 300   14"    4.50   1.3mil  |   6"   2.00   0.6mil  300
 350   22"    6.00   1.7mil  |   9"   2.50   0.7mil  350
 400   31"    7.50   2.2mil  |  12"   2.75   0.8mil  400
 450   43"    9.25   2.7mil  |  15"   3.25   0.9mil  450
 500   58"   11.00   3.2mil  |  19"   3.75   1.1mil  500
 550   74"   13.00   3.8mil  |  24"   4.00   1.2mil  550
 600   94"   15.00   4.3mil  |  29"   4.50   1.3mil  600
 650  116"   17.00   5.0mil  |  34"   5.00   1.5mil  650
 700  142"   19.25   5.6mil  |  40"   5.50   1.6mil  700
 750  170"   21.75   6.3mil  |  47"   6.00   1.8mil  750
 800  203"   24.25   7.0mil  |  55"   6.50   1.9mil  800
 850  240"   27.00   7.8mil  |  63"   7.00   2.1mil  850
 900  280"   29.75   8.7mil  |  72"   7.75   2.2mil  900
 950  326"   32.75   9.5mil  |  82"   8.25   2.4mil  950
1000  376"   36.00  10.5mil  |  92"   8.75   2.6mil 1000

308 WIN 155gr Lapua Scenar: 2840fps
308 WIN 155gr Lapua Scenar: 2840fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    0.75   0.2mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   1"   0.50   0.2mil  100
 150    1"    0.50   0.1mil  |   1"   1.00   0.3mil  150
 200    3"    1.50   0.4mil  |   3"   1.25   0.3mil  200
 250    6"    2.50   0.7mil  |   4"   1.50   0.4mil  250
 300   11"    3.75   1.1mil  |   6"   1.75   0.5mil  300
 350   18"    5.00   1.4mil  |   8"   2.25   0.6mil  350
 400   26"    6.25   1.8mil  |  11"   2.50   0.7mil  400
 450   37"    7.75   2.3mil  |  14"   3.00   0.8mil  450
 500   49"    9.25   2.7mil  |  17"   3.25   1.0mil  500
 550   63"   11.00   3.2mil  |  22"   3.75   1.1mil  550
 600   80"   12.75   3.7mil  |  26"   4.25   1.2mil  600
 650   99"   14.50   4.2mil  |  32"   4.75   1.4mil  650
 700  121"   16.50   4.8mil  |  38"   5.25   1.5mil  700
 750  147"   18.75   5.4mil  |  45"   5.75   1.7mil  750
 800  175"   21.00   6.1mil  |  53"   6.25   1.8mil  800
 850  208"   23.50   6.8mil  |  62"   7.00   2.0mil  850
 900  245"   26.00   7.6mil  |  71"   7.50   2.2mil  900
 950  287"   28.75   8.4mil  |  82"   8.25   2.4mil  950
1000  334"   31.75   9.3mil  |  93"   9.00   2.6mil 1000

260 REM 139 Lapua Scenar: 2820fps
260 REM 139 Lapua Scenar: 2820fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    0.75   0.2mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   0"   0.50   0.1mil  100
 150    1"    0.50   0.1mil  |   1"   0.75   0.2mil  150
 200    3"    1.25   0.4mil  |   2"   1.00   0.3mil  200
 250    6"    2.50   0.7mil  |   3"   1.25   0.3mil  250
 300   11"    3.50   1.0mil  |   5"   1.50   0.4mil  300
 350   17"    4.75   1.4mil  |   6"   1.75   0.5mil  350
 400   25"    6.00   1.8mil  |   8"   2.00   0.6mil  400
 450   35"    7.50   2.2mil  |  11"   2.25   0.7mil  450
 500   46"    8.75   2.6mil  |  14"   2.50   0.8mil  500
 550   60"   10.25   3.0mil  |  17"   3.00   0.8mil  550
 600   75"   12.00   3.5mil  |  20"   3.25   0.9mil  600
 650   92"   13.50   3.9mil  |  24"   3.50   1.0mil  650
 700  112"   15.25   4.4mil  |  28"   3.75   1.1mil  700
 750  134"   17.00   5.0mil  |  33"   4.25   1.2mil  750
 800  158"   19.00   5.5mil  |  38"   4.50   1.3mil  800
 850  185"   20.75   6.1mil  |  43"   4.75   1.4mil  850
 900  215"   22.75   6.7mil  |  49"   5.25   1.5mil  900
 950  248"   25.00   7.3mil  |  56"   5.50   1.6mil  950
1000  285"   27.25   7.9mil  |  63"   6.00   1.7mil 1000

300WM 190gr SMK: 2970fps
300WM 190gr SMK: 2970fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    1.00   0.3mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   1"   0.50   0.1mil  100
 150    1"    0.50   0.1mil  |   1"   0.75   0.2mil  150
 200    2"    1.25   0.3mil  |   2"   1.00   0.3mil  200
 250    6"    2.00   0.6mil  |   4"   1.25   0.4mil  250
 300   10"    3.25   0.9mil  |   5"   1.75   0.5mil  300
 350   16"    4.25   1.2mil  |   7"   2.00   0.6mil  350
 400   23"    5.50   1.6mil  |   9"   2.25   0.7mil  400
 450   32"    6.75   2.0mil  |  12"   2.50   0.7mil  450
 500   43"    8.25   2.4mil  |  15"   3.00   0.8mil  500
 550   55"    9.50   2.8mil  |  19"   3.25   0.9mil  550
 600   70"   11.00   3.2mil  |  22"   3.50   1.0mil  600
 650   86"   12.75   3.7mil  |  27"   4.00   1.1mil  650
 700  105"   14.25   4.2mil  |  32"   4.25   1.2mil  700
 750  127"   16.00   4.7mil  |  37"   4.75   1.4mil  750
 800  150"   18.00   5.2mil  |  43"   5.00   1.5mil  800
 850  177"   20.00   5.8mil  |  49"   5.50   1.6mil  850
 900  207"   22.00   6.4mil  |  56"   6.00   1.7mil  900
 950  240"   24.00   7.0mil  |  64"   6.50   1.9mil  950
1000  276"   26.25   7.7mil  |  72"   6.75   2.0mil 1000

7mm Rem Mag 168gr Berger VLD: 2950fps
7mm Rem Mag 168gr Berger VLD: 2950fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    1.00   0.3mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   0"   0.50   0.1mil  100
 150    1"    0.50   0.1mil  |   1"   0.75   0.2mil  150
 200    2"    1.25   0.3mil  |   2"   0.75   0.2mil  200
 250    5"    2.00   0.6mil  |   3"   1.00   0.3mil  250
 300   10"    3.00   0.9mil  |   4"   1.25   0.4mil  300
 350   15"    4.25   1.2mil  |   6"   1.50   0.5mil  350
 400   22"    5.25   1.6mil  |   8"   1.75   0.5mil  400
 450   31"    6.50   1.9mil  |  10"   2.00   0.6mil  450
 500   41"    7.75   2.3mil  |  12"   2.25   0.7mil  500
 550   53"    9.25   2.7mil  |  15"   2.50   0.7mil  550
 600   66"   10.50   3.1mil  |  18"   2.75   0.8mil  600
 650   81"   12.00   3.5mil  |  21"   3.00   0.9mil  650
 700   99"   13.50   3.9mil  |  25"   3.50   1.0mil  700
 750  118"   15.00   4.4mil  |  29"   3.75   1.1mil  750
 800  139"   16.75   4.8mil  |  33"   4.00   1.1mil  800
 850  163"   18.25   5.3mil  |  38"   4.25   1.2mil  850
 900  189"   20.00   5.8mil  |  43"   4.50   1.3mil  900
 950  218"   22.00   6.4mil  |  49"   5.00   1.4mil  950
1000  250"   23.75   6.9mil  |  55"   5.25   1.5mil 1000

338 Lapua Magnum 250gr Lapua Scenar: 2960fps
338 Lapua Magnum 250gr Lapua Scenar: 2960fps
   100yd zero  1300'DA 
RANGE  ELEV-  moa    mil     | WIND(10) moa   mil   RANGE
  50    0"    1.00   0.3mil  |   0"   0.25   0.1mil   50
 100    0"    0.00   0.0mil  |   0"   0.50   0.1mil  100
 150    1"    0.50   0.1mil  |   1"   0.75   0.2mil  150
 200    2"    1.25   0.3mil  |   2"   0.75   0.2mil  200
 250    5"    2.00   0.6mil  |   3"   1.00   0.3mil  250
 300   10"    3.00   0.9mil  |   4"   1.25   0.4mil  300
 350   15"    4.25   1.2mil  |   6"   1.50   0.5mil  350
 400   22"    5.25   1.5mil  |   8"   1.75   0.5mil  400
 450   31"    6.50   1.9mil  |  10"   2.00   0.6mil  450
 500   41"    7.75   2.3mil  |  12"   2.25   0.7mil  500
 550   52"    9.00   2.6mil  |  15"   2.50   0.7mil  550
 600   66"   10.50   3.0mil  |  18"   2.75   0.8mil  600
 650   81"   12.00   3.5mil  |  22"   3.25   0.9mil  650
 700   98"   13.50   3.9mil  |  26"   3.50   1.0mil  700
 750  118"   15.00   4.4mil  |  30"   3.75   1.1mil  750
 800  140"   16.75   4.8mil  |  35"   4.25   1.2mil  800
 850  164"   18.50   5.4mil  |  41"   4.50   1.3mil  850
 900  191"   20.25   5.9mil  |  47"   5.00   1.5mil  900
 950  222"   22.25   6.5mil  |  54"   5.50   1.6mil  950
1000  255"   24.25   7.1mil  |  62"   6.00   1.7mil 1000


Proceed to PRACTICAL LONG RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING - PART II: OPTICS