It is divided into three sections. The first is about the rifle and gear. The second discusses trajectory and optics selection in depth. The third explains how to put everything together to make hits on targets in the field.
PART I: THE RIFLE & GEAR - priorities, cost, calibers, rifles, ammunition, scopes, range-finders, ancillary gear, spotting, data
PART II: OPTICS - ballistics, elevation, wind, lead, data cards, dialing elevation, parallax, first focal plane vs. second focal plane, elevation adjustment & travel, clicks, zero-stop, single- vs. multi-turn knobs, bullet-drop compensators (BDC), tube diameter, reticle features, MIL vs. MOA, reticle illumination, brightness, magnification, objective size, specific recommendations
PART III: SHOOTING - zeroing, finding a range, targets and placement, packing up, arrival, target location, positioning, making scope adjustments, engagement, follow-up, shooter/spotter communication, efficiency
Applications include but are not limited to: very small targets 1/4"-1" at 100 to 200 yards, so-called "cold bore" shots, arbitrary unknown distance targets, moving targets, ranging, shooter/spotter communication, and combinations of all of those under time constraints.
Generally, these include everything a rifleman is likely to find in any "sniper", "tactical", or "field" rifle match. The typical platform is a bolt action rifle, though an auto-loader of sufficient accuracy and appropriate caliber can do the job with some trade-offs.
For our purposes, consider "long range" to reach to the load's trans-sonic boundary (the point at which the bullet slows to 15 to 20 percent faster than Mach 1). For example, with typical 308 loads and rifles, we are interested in ranges from 25 yards out to about 700-1100 yards, depending on ambient conditions and the particular load.
Remember, long-range practical shooting is about making hits in the field. Practice and skill are more important than equipment.
Many people balk at spending $1000 or more on a rifle or scope. This is misguided. Spending money for good equipment in these two areas especially are some of the best places to spend money in a precision rifle system. Along with the rifle action, stock, and mounts, these costs are fixed over the life of the rifle. The cost of training, ammunition, and barrels dramatically eclipses those fixed costs.
To illustrate the point, let's analyze the cost of training with a high-end factory precision rifle (AI-AE) using a top of the line S&B or US Optics scope for 5 years. A rifleman with a moderate but regular training schedule might shoot 3000 per year. If he is shooting 308, a realistic barrel life might be 8000 rounds. Over the 5 years, that will be 15,000 rounds and 2 barrels. For ammunition, we will use a conservative estimate of what reloaded ammunition might cost. Let's assume he takes 2 rifle classes in that period, travels to one large match per year, and uses one tank of gas per month practicing locally.
Rifle purchase cost $2500 (not counting first barrel)
Scope purchase cost $2100
Fixed Cost Total $4600
Two replacement barrels $1200
15,000 reloads $6000
Consumables Cost Total $7200
Two classes enrollment $1600
Two classes travel & lodging $2000
Five major match entry fee $ 875
Five matches travel & lodging $5000
Five local matches per year
entry & gas money $2400
Total Training Cost $11,875
It's clear that both consumable costs and training costs will totally eclipse the fixed rifle and
optics costs by a factor of four over a five year period. If you plan on shooting regularly to
achieve a superior level of proficiency, it makes sense to buy the best rifle and scope you possibly
can. To put it another way, why make a $500 compromise when selecting the rifle or scope when it
could put the $1000 you've invested in a rifle class or national match at risk?
There are two primary factors related to caliber which affect long-range performance. The first is the bullet's Ballistic Coefficient (BC), a measure of how easily the bullet slips through the air. Higher BC is better. The second is the muzzle velocity. Faster is better.
Bullet selection is critical for long-range shooting. Select the bullet which has the highest BC possible, provided the muzzle velocity is not too low. Here is a breakdown of how different BC's rate:
higher than 0.70: Best higher than 0.60: Excellent higher than 0.50: Good higher than 0.40: Merely OKOnce a high-BC bullet is selected, it's always better to shoot it faster, but there are diminishing returns faster than 3000 fps. Bullet weight combined with muzzle velocity tend to indicate "overbore" calibers-- cartridges which have a high proportion of powder to bore area. This measure is important because overbore calibers wear out barrels faster than calibers which use less powder. For example, .300 Winchester Magnum has more powder capacity than .308 Winchester, but both can shoot the same bullets. The .300 will wear out a barrel faster than the .308.
The baseline caliber choice is .308 Winchester. It shoots a 0.51 BC bullet at 2650 - 2850 fps, and has very long barrel life (8000+ rounds). Recoil is mild. Factory "match" ammunition is available everywhere for reasonable prices. Calibers with better long-range performance will have the liabilities of: more expensive ammunition, shorter barrel life, increased blast and recoil, and in some cases the necessity of reloading.
To achieve better long-range performance, the velocity or BC must be improved. For long-range performance, generally bullets that are "heavy" for the caliber will provide the best BC, but this is not always true when comparing bullets of different design.
Summary table of other good long-range calibers. It is important that "match" or "VLD" bullet types be selected. These are generally of the boat-tail hollow-point design, have more consistent accuracy than hunting designs, and have higher BC values.
Caliber Preferred Bullet Weight Velocity
* 6mm:
243 Winchester 107-115gr, 3000-3100fps
6XC 107-115gr, 2850-2950fps
* 6.5mm:
260 Remington 120-142gr, 2700-3000fps
260 Remington Ackley 139-142gr, 2850-2950fps
6.5-284 Norma 139-142gr, 2950-3050fps
* 7mm:
7mm Remington Magnum 162-180gr, 2900-3050fps
7mm WSM 162-180gr, 2850-3000fps
284 Winchester 150-168gr, 2700-2800fps
280 Remington 162-180gr, 2750-2860fps
* .30:
.30-06 175-210gr, 2660-2960fps
.300 Winchester Magnum 190-210gr, 2850-3050fps
.300 WSM 175-210gr, 2750-3000fps
* .338
.338 Lapua Magnum 250-300gr, 2700-3000fps
If you can only have one long-range precision rifle, it should be in .308 Winchester. Match-grade .308
ammunition is available everywhere, reloading recipes are well known and reloading it is easy, and
in many rifles, the surplus 7.62x51 NATO ammunition from some countries will shoot 1.5 MOA or
better, which is good enough for short-range (400 yards and closer) practice from less steady
shooting positions such as offhand, kneeling, over barricades, or shooting at movers.
I am going to recommend three other calibers to use for practical long-range shooting. The first is .260 Remington. It fits in the same rifles and actions as 308, but has less recoil and superior external ballistics. The second is 7mm Remington Magnum. The last is .338 Lapua Magnum. There are a lot of other calibers that perform well at long range, but these additional three provide good stepping points of increased performance.
The Magnum calibers such as 7RM, 300WM, and 338 Lapua will provide improved ballistics, but at the expense of ammunition cost, barrel life, and increased recoil. The box magazines for these calibers hold fewer rounds than the short-action .308-based calibers. Follow-up shots will be slower due to the increased recoil and bolt cycling distance.
Accuracy. It has to have sufficient mechanical accuracy. For the purposes of practical long-range shooting as discussed in this article, 1 MOA is sufficient. This is sufficient to hit a 10" circle at 1000 yards, or an IPSC silhouette target's "head" (6x6") at 600 yards. Obviously more accuracy is always better, and a half-MOA rifle is preferable to a 1 MOA rifle. In most cases, the error in wind estimation and subsequent wind changes will subsume the difference between a 1/4 MOA and 1 MOA rifle (at least for windage error). Most of the accuracy comes from a good barrel.
Long-range accuracy depends on external trajectory just as much as 100-yard "mechanical" accuracy, so velocity is important. Everything else equal, a longer barrel will give more velocity and be better at making long-range hits. For a rifle intended to make 1000-yard shots, I recommend at least 24" barrel length for short-action calibers such as 308 or 260. Going to 26" is even better. For the magnum or long-action calibers like 300WM, 7RM, 6.5-284, or 338 Lapua, a 26-28" barrel will be a better choice, and it will yield more gain in those additional inches than you would see in the smaller calibers.
Ergonomics. The rifle has to fit the shooter, accommodating a comfortable and stress-free position while shooting from various common positions. Stock setup and scope positioning are critical for proper eye relief for full field of view through the scope. When these are set right, the shooter can get on the gun and obtain a fire-able sight-picture without muscle strain. The other related adjustment is the length of pull, from butt-stock to trigger. The best way to make sure the ergonomics of the rifle will fit you is to get an adjustable stock. It should be adjustable for length (typically add pads or shims on the buttstock) and it should have an adjustable-height cheek comb. The McMillan A-5, and the Accuracy International AICS stocks are both excellent choices.
Controls. The controls required to operate and shoot the rifle should be easy to actuate. The most important two controls are the trigger and, for a bolt-action rifle, the bolt. The trigger can be of a single-stage or two-stage design, based on shooter preference, and should break at 2-4 lbs. The bolt should be able to be operated to cycle the action without the shooter having to move from his shooting position. The sight picture should be retained through the bolt cycle. The safety needs to be operable and reasonably easy to switch. A bipod, if used, should be easy to deploy and stow, for quick setup at a shooting position.
Magazine. Most conventional bolt-action rifles have a blind magazine which loaded one round at a time from the top. This is OK for shooting single rounds one after another when there is little or no time pressure, and you have some way to carry the extra rounds. For the last 25 years, many issued sniper rifles have used detachable box magazines (DBM), similar to magazines for the AR-15 or M14. These can be an asset to a practical long-range rifle when the shooter must engage multiple targets quickly, or wants to be able to send follow-up shots with minimal delay. They also facilitate unloading the rifle more quickly.
The best DBM system for bolt-action rifles right now comprises the Accuracy International magazines for short or long-action calibers, in either an AICS stock or a Remington-700-series stock (when fitted with the Badger "bottom metal" AICS magazine adapter). Both the SAKO and AI factory rifles come with DBM systems already, and need no conversion. The H.S. Precision DBM system has proved unreliable and I recommend avoiding it.
Custom. There are many gunsmiths who build precision long-range rifles. The vast majority of these are based on the Remington 700 action, with real performance improvements done to them, and some frills. Some are based on better actions such as the Surgeon, which has a Picatinny rail machined right into the top of the receiver. The builders I recommend are GA Precision, KMW Precision, and Surgeon Rifles. These guys all have impeccable records and deliver a lot of well-built rifles for practical long-range shooting.
The advantage of one of these over the high-end factory rifles (listed next) is that you can get it made exactly to your specs. Expect to pay $3000-4500 for one of these rifles.High-end Factory. The other option is a high-end factory rifle. These are generally rifles designed from the ground up for military sniper duty, and sold on the commercial market as well. The most notable are the Arctic Warfare line from Accuracy International (U.K.), and the TRG line from Sako (Finland). The quality and accuracy of these rifles are basically the same as the custom rifles mentioned, but they are factory pieces and generally have a "system" of accessories to go along with them, as well as having a logistics trail already. Replacement parts are stocked items, not custom one-offs. $3000-5500.
Most new long-range rifle shooters will be able to shoot a long time and learn a lot using the basic Remington 700 or Savage 10FP, if they get the rifle to fit them and mount quality optics on it. For the shooter that never wants to question if his equipment has let him down, the AI AW, Sako TRG, or high-end custom rifle from GAP, KMW, or Surgeon is the way to go. Putting more money in a better rifle is an investment that will pay off down the line.
The best sources of factory ammunition for long-range shooting are: the Gold Medal Match line from Federal, and Black Hills Ammunition. .308 Winchester has the most factory match-grade ammunition available, so if ammo supply will be a problem and you cannot reload, .308 is definitely the caliber to choose.
Here is a cautionary note for .308 Winchester ammunition selection for long-range use. The .308 can deliver good thousand-yard performance, but only with careful selection of ammunition, specifically the bullet used and the muzzle velocity. Those two together must be sufficient to keep the bullet solidly supersonic when shot through the current ambient atmospheric conditions. Specifically, standard 150gr FMJ and even some match bullets have BC values too low to reliably stay supersonic at this range. In denser atmospheric conditions, they may produce poor accuracy or even strike the target sideways. The 168gr SMK bullet is known for producing variable results at 1000 yards. There are better choices for .308 bullet selection, so just don't use the 168gr SMK. The Sierra MatchKing bullets heavier than 175gr will work. Any of the Berger VLD bullets heavier than 168gr should work. The best choice is the 155gr Lapua Scenar, if it shoots accurately from your barrel. This bullet has a BC value as high as the 175gr SMK, but can be shot 100-200fps faster from most barrels.
Reloading is financially compelling. Where factory match might be $18 a box of 20, by saving your brass and reloading, you can save 50-75% of the cost. That translates into more shooting for less money. The other benefit is that you can tailor a load for your specific rifle that suits your needs.
There are some excellent long-range calibers for which factory match-grade long-range ammunition is not available, or is available only in very small quantities or for a very high price. These include all of the calibers discussed above except for .308, 300 WM, and .338 Lapua. If you own a rifle in a caliber for which good long-range ammunition is not available, you have committed to quite a bit of load development and reloading time.
When given a choice in components, I recommend choosing Lapua cases (brass) if they are available in that caliber. After Lapua, try Norma, then Winchester, then whatever you can get. Bullet selection was covered before, but some good candidates are bullets from Lapua, Berger, and Sierra. For powder type, I prefer to use powers from Hodgdon's "Extreme" line, including H4831SC, Varget, Retumbo. There is always some experimentation involved in developing "THE" load for your long-range rifle.
Leupold Mark 4, 3.5-10x40mm, M1 or M2 knobs, mil-dot or mil-hash reticle. This is the baseline optic I recommend. Leupold tactical scopes are proven, solid, and provide the basic features you need for practical long-range shooting. Get the "First Focal" version if you can afford it. The 4.5-15x50mm version is a good choice too. Buy used if you don't have enough money yet. $800-1200.
Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50mm. The Nightforce scopes have glass a little better than the Leupold, and are more sturdily built. Downside- no first-focal reticle option. $1100 - 1400.
US Optics SN3, 3.2-17x44mm. Get metric knobs and a mildot or mil-hash reticle. Get the EREK knob for elevation. These scopes are heavy, but sturdy. They are made in California and USO has good customer service. $1800-2400.
Schmidt & Bender PMII, 3-12x50mm. Get metric knobs and P4 or P4-Fine reticle. A plain mildot is available in the P3 reticle, but the P4 is an improvement. This scope is built like a tank, has super clear and bright optics, has a zero stop, is available in all "metric" (mil-based reticle and knob clicks). With optics this clear, 3-12x is enough to make hits to 1000-1200 yards, and the 3-12 is a nice compact scope. S&B also has a 4-16 available, and a 5-25. The 5-25 is an excellent choice for a long-range Magnum intended for shooting 1-3 MOA targets 1000-1500 yards. $2000-2700.
Some rifles and receivers have an integral Picatinny rail, such as the AR-10, SR-25, and Surgeon rifle receiver. These designs remove the need for a separate base; the rings are bolted straight to the receiver.
There are mounts for Picatinny rails and proprietary receivers which are a "unified" mount. Instead of having two separate rings, the two ring bases are machined from a single piece of metal, and there is no need for separate rings and bases. The advantage of a unified mount is that there are fewer connectors to come loose and less weight for the same strength or rigidity.
Mounts, receivers, or unified mounts can provide a scope mounting incline angle, usually called an "MOA base", referring to a downward angle relative to the bore axis. This is used to utilize more of the scope's internal adjustment ("click") range, and is discussed in detail in OPTICS FOR PRACTICAL LONG-RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING.
This margin is used up by rifle and shooter accuracy, accuracy of "data book" drop values compared to current real conditions and load, and ranging error. If we look only at ranging error, that 8" of error margin translates into 16 yards. In other words, the estimated range which is used to look up the drop value, must be within plus or minus 16 yards of the real value. If his range estimate is 25 yards short, the bullet will be 12.5" low, and it will miss the target.
There are basically two methods to range long-distance targets. The first method is to "mil" the targets, which means that if the shooter knows the physical dimensions of a distant object, he can use reticle features to compare the apparent size, and use that information to calculate the object's distance. This is the most basic skill and something that every long-range shooter should know how to do, but is error-prone because of three main reasons: 1. object dimensions are not always known, or known accurately; 2. accurately measuring the object's apparent size in the reticle (in mils or MOA), is not precise; and 3. doing math in the field under time pressure is error prone. (I will cover milling targets in a later section of this article series.)
The other common method to determine target distance is to use a laser range finder (LRF). These work by bouncing an infra-red (invisible) laser beam off the object and using a computer to turn the time it took to get there and back into a distance in yards or meters. Laser range finders generally work pretty will within their maximum range in good optical conditions, but their performance will degrade when target reflectivity is low, there is sun flare, or the line of sight is not clear.
Both monocular and binocular laser range-finders are available. A monocular only has one optic that you can look through, just like a rifle scope or camera, but the binoculars operate like regular binoculars except they have a laser range-finder built in. Binocular LRFs are better for spotting and target location, but they are larger and more expensive.I recommend four range-finders:
Burris 7x40 binocular, max 1500 yards. This LRF has relatively poor optics and is large, but it ranges well. $650.
Leica 1200 / 1200 Scan monocular, max 1200 yards. This LRF has good optics and is nice and compact. $650. If pressed for price, the 1200 and 1200 Scan models can be found for as cheap as $350 used. This is the best buy.
Leica Geovid binoculars, 8x or 10x magnification, max 1300 yards. This LRF has great optics and ranges well, but is large. It is the ultimate tool for target location, spotting, and ranging within 1000 yards. $1800 - 2100.
Swarovski 8x Laser Guide monocular, max 2000 yards. This LRF has good optics and is nice and compact. It ranges further than anything under $6000. Price is $900 new, $700 used. To get 2x the ranging ability, you have to spend at least 10x the cost of the range-finder. If you regularly need to range targets from 800-2000 yards, this is the best choice. Its only downside is the large reticle which is hard to pinpoint on targets.
I recommend against "upgrades." 99% of these factory rifles will shoot 1 MOA with the FGMM or Black Hills ammunition from the box. If the trigger is very heavy, get a local gunsmith to set it to 4 lbs. Fix the ergonomics of the stock as best you can, and then get started shooting. You should be able to get all this for under $1000, or no more than $1500.
Custom Rifle from GA Precision, KMW Precision, or Surgeon Rifles in 308 Winchester. Have it built on a Surgeon action, and put in either a McMillan A-5 stock or an Accuracy International AICS stock. (In the case of the McMillan, have it fitted with Badger "bottom metal" for the AICS magazines.) Get Badger or Seekins Precision rings. Buy the best scope you can just barely afford-- the S&B PMII 3-12 (or 4-16); the USO SN3 3.2-17x44mm; or the Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50mm. In the case of the S&B or USO, get a metric reticle (mildot or mil-hash) and metric knob clicks (0.1 mil). Shoot the Lapua 155gr Scenar in either factory loads from Lapua, or your own reloads. Buy the Leica Geovids or Swarovski laser range-finder.
High-end Factory from Accuracy International. Buy a factory AI-AW .308 Winchester, 26" barrel with factory brake, "2.0" chassis configuration (folder). Do not get the factory Picatinny rail. Mount a S&B PMII in the single-piece AI scope mount directly to the receiver. Use the AI bipod. Shoot the Lapua 155gr Scenar in either factory loads from Lapua, or your own reloads. You'll have no excuses. Buy the Leica Geovids or Swarovski laser range-finder.
Good bipod. The Harris bipod is the standard choice for Remington-style systems. The height should start out low enough to get the lowest comfortable prone position you will use, and the legs should telescope up for more height when it is needed. The Parker-Hale-style bipod have certain advantages, mainly they are quicker and easier to deploy, stow, and operate one-handed, and they have more play and yaw which prevents "hopping feet" which can be a problem with Harris bipods. The SAKO TRG bipod is very stable, but only works on the TRG rifles.
Sling. A good sling is mandatory for carrying the rifle while hiking cross-country, and can be an effective shooting aide when shooting from positions other than prone off the bipod.
Rear beanbag. Many shooters use a small "beanbag" for use under the rear of the stock. This is a handy way to add stabilization to prone positions. Instead of using sand or real beans, the best ones for field use are filled with pea-sized plastic bead filler, which makes them lightweight and not affected by water (wet beans or rice are Not Good).
Backpack. A small to medium sized backpack is useful for "hike and shoot" field events, or just carrying the gear you need along with the rifle. It can also be used as an improvised front or rear rifle rest in improvised positions. I normally carry: rear bag, ammunition, binoculars, laser range-finder, some water, and rain-gear in my pack. This isn't that much stuff and there's no reason to go overboard. I recommend Kifaru packs because they are bomb-proof, comfortable, and made here in Colorado USA. Most "3 Day Assault Packs" are about the right size. My preferred pack is the Kifaru Express.
Suppressor. I strongly recommend using a sound suppressor when shooting rifles. They smooth out the recoil impulse, make things quieter, allow easier shooter/spotter communication, and reduce recoil. In calibers smaller than 338 Lapua, a suppressor will have less recoil than a good muzzle brake, and will be much much quieter.
Binoculars. Binoculars are useful for target location and spotting. If you anticipate difficulty in locating targets and do not have a LRF binocular, I recommend bringing a decent set of regular binoculars. If target location won't be too hard or you are skilled at it, you can do without. I have been very impressed by my set of Leica Ultravids (10x42), but any decent set should work.
Shooting Sticks. Shooting sticks provide an adjustable-height support which is useful for improvised positions in the field, when your bipod won't go as high as you need to make the shot. Stoney Point makes good ones, for $40-60.
The key inputs are: bullet ballistic coefficient (BC), muzzle velocity (MV), sight center over bore center distance, zero distance (100 yards recommended), and environmental conditions (station pressure and/or altitude, temperature and humidity).
For example, my .308 load changes approximately 1 click (0.1 mil) at 1000 yards every 500' density altitude change (density altitude is a combination of station pressure and temperature rolled into one number). Knowing this rule of thumb, I don't need a sheet for every single change in altitude or temperature-- I can use the sheet I have and apply the rule. But if I am travelling to a much higher or lower location, I will print out a new card for that location.
The article OPTICS FOR PRACTICAL LONG-RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING has an overview of rifle trajectory and what a data-card looks like. I normally use a short piece of shoestring or para-cord to tie the "current" data-card to the scope body. This prevents it from getting lost or blowing away, and is right where I can reach to look at it while on the gun.
You can skip to PRACTICAL LONG RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING - PART II: OPTICS or finish up this section with sample data cards.
For each distance, there is the: drop in inches, drop in MOA, drop in mils; then wind in inches for 10mph cross, wind in MOA, wind in mils. To save space in the article, I printed data ever 50 yards. For an actual data-card, I recommend print data every 20 or 25 yards.
Want a set of cards from DEMIGOD LLC? Click here
308 WIN 175gr SMK: 2650fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 0.75 0.2mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 1" 0.75 0.2mil 100 150 1" 0.75 0.2mil | 2" 1.00 0.3mil 150 200 4" 1.75 0.5mil | 3" 1.25 0.4mil 200 250 8" 3.00 0.9mil | 4" 1.75 0.5mil 250 300 14" 4.50 1.3mil | 6" 2.00 0.6mil 300 350 22" 6.00 1.7mil | 9" 2.50 0.7mil 350 400 31" 7.50 2.2mil | 12" 2.75 0.8mil 400 450 43" 9.25 2.7mil | 15" 3.25 0.9mil 450 500 58" 11.00 3.2mil | 19" 3.75 1.1mil 500 550 74" 13.00 3.8mil | 24" 4.00 1.2mil 550 600 94" 15.00 4.3mil | 29" 4.50 1.3mil 600 650 116" 17.00 5.0mil | 34" 5.00 1.5mil 650 700 142" 19.25 5.6mil | 40" 5.50 1.6mil 700 750 170" 21.75 6.3mil | 47" 6.00 1.8mil 750 800 203" 24.25 7.0mil | 55" 6.50 1.9mil 800 850 240" 27.00 7.8mil | 63" 7.00 2.1mil 850 900 280" 29.75 8.7mil | 72" 7.75 2.2mil 900 950 326" 32.75 9.5mil | 82" 8.25 2.4mil 950 1000 376" 36.00 10.5mil | 92" 8.75 2.6mil 1000
308 WIN 155gr Lapua Scenar: 2840fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 0.75 0.2mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 1" 0.50 0.2mil 100 150 1" 0.50 0.1mil | 1" 1.00 0.3mil 150 200 3" 1.50 0.4mil | 3" 1.25 0.3mil 200 250 6" 2.50 0.7mil | 4" 1.50 0.4mil 250 300 11" 3.75 1.1mil | 6" 1.75 0.5mil 300 350 18" 5.00 1.4mil | 8" 2.25 0.6mil 350 400 26" 6.25 1.8mil | 11" 2.50 0.7mil 400 450 37" 7.75 2.3mil | 14" 3.00 0.8mil 450 500 49" 9.25 2.7mil | 17" 3.25 1.0mil 500 550 63" 11.00 3.2mil | 22" 3.75 1.1mil 550 600 80" 12.75 3.7mil | 26" 4.25 1.2mil 600 650 99" 14.50 4.2mil | 32" 4.75 1.4mil 650 700 121" 16.50 4.8mil | 38" 5.25 1.5mil 700 750 147" 18.75 5.4mil | 45" 5.75 1.7mil 750 800 175" 21.00 6.1mil | 53" 6.25 1.8mil 800 850 208" 23.50 6.8mil | 62" 7.00 2.0mil 850 900 245" 26.00 7.6mil | 71" 7.50 2.2mil 900 950 287" 28.75 8.4mil | 82" 8.25 2.4mil 950 1000 334" 31.75 9.3mil | 93" 9.00 2.6mil 1000
260 REM 139 Lapua Scenar: 2820fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 0.75 0.2mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 0" 0.50 0.1mil 100 150 1" 0.50 0.1mil | 1" 0.75 0.2mil 150 200 3" 1.25 0.4mil | 2" 1.00 0.3mil 200 250 6" 2.50 0.7mil | 3" 1.25 0.3mil 250 300 11" 3.50 1.0mil | 5" 1.50 0.4mil 300 350 17" 4.75 1.4mil | 6" 1.75 0.5mil 350 400 25" 6.00 1.8mil | 8" 2.00 0.6mil 400 450 35" 7.50 2.2mil | 11" 2.25 0.7mil 450 500 46" 8.75 2.6mil | 14" 2.50 0.8mil 500 550 60" 10.25 3.0mil | 17" 3.00 0.8mil 550 600 75" 12.00 3.5mil | 20" 3.25 0.9mil 600 650 92" 13.50 3.9mil | 24" 3.50 1.0mil 650 700 112" 15.25 4.4mil | 28" 3.75 1.1mil 700 750 134" 17.00 5.0mil | 33" 4.25 1.2mil 750 800 158" 19.00 5.5mil | 38" 4.50 1.3mil 800 850 185" 20.75 6.1mil | 43" 4.75 1.4mil 850 900 215" 22.75 6.7mil | 49" 5.25 1.5mil 900 950 248" 25.00 7.3mil | 56" 5.50 1.6mil 950 1000 285" 27.25 7.9mil | 63" 6.00 1.7mil 1000
300WM 190gr SMK: 2970fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 1.00 0.3mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 1" 0.50 0.1mil 100 150 1" 0.50 0.1mil | 1" 0.75 0.2mil 150 200 2" 1.25 0.3mil | 2" 1.00 0.3mil 200 250 6" 2.00 0.6mil | 4" 1.25 0.4mil 250 300 10" 3.25 0.9mil | 5" 1.75 0.5mil 300 350 16" 4.25 1.2mil | 7" 2.00 0.6mil 350 400 23" 5.50 1.6mil | 9" 2.25 0.7mil 400 450 32" 6.75 2.0mil | 12" 2.50 0.7mil 450 500 43" 8.25 2.4mil | 15" 3.00 0.8mil 500 550 55" 9.50 2.8mil | 19" 3.25 0.9mil 550 600 70" 11.00 3.2mil | 22" 3.50 1.0mil 600 650 86" 12.75 3.7mil | 27" 4.00 1.1mil 650 700 105" 14.25 4.2mil | 32" 4.25 1.2mil 700 750 127" 16.00 4.7mil | 37" 4.75 1.4mil 750 800 150" 18.00 5.2mil | 43" 5.00 1.5mil 800 850 177" 20.00 5.8mil | 49" 5.50 1.6mil 850 900 207" 22.00 6.4mil | 56" 6.00 1.7mil 900 950 240" 24.00 7.0mil | 64" 6.50 1.9mil 950 1000 276" 26.25 7.7mil | 72" 6.75 2.0mil 1000
7mm Rem Mag 168gr Berger VLD: 2950fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 1.00 0.3mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 0" 0.50 0.1mil 100 150 1" 0.50 0.1mil | 1" 0.75 0.2mil 150 200 2" 1.25 0.3mil | 2" 0.75 0.2mil 200 250 5" 2.00 0.6mil | 3" 1.00 0.3mil 250 300 10" 3.00 0.9mil | 4" 1.25 0.4mil 300 350 15" 4.25 1.2mil | 6" 1.50 0.5mil 350 400 22" 5.25 1.6mil | 8" 1.75 0.5mil 400 450 31" 6.50 1.9mil | 10" 2.00 0.6mil 450 500 41" 7.75 2.3mil | 12" 2.25 0.7mil 500 550 53" 9.25 2.7mil | 15" 2.50 0.7mil 550 600 66" 10.50 3.1mil | 18" 2.75 0.8mil 600 650 81" 12.00 3.5mil | 21" 3.00 0.9mil 650 700 99" 13.50 3.9mil | 25" 3.50 1.0mil 700 750 118" 15.00 4.4mil | 29" 3.75 1.1mil 750 800 139" 16.75 4.8mil | 33" 4.00 1.1mil 800 850 163" 18.25 5.3mil | 38" 4.25 1.2mil 850 900 189" 20.00 5.8mil | 43" 4.50 1.3mil 900 950 218" 22.00 6.4mil | 49" 5.00 1.4mil 950 1000 250" 23.75 6.9mil | 55" 5.25 1.5mil 1000
338 Lapua Magnum 250gr Lapua Scenar: 2960fps 100yd zero 1300'DA RANGE ELEV- moa mil | WIND(10) moa mil RANGE 50 0" 1.00 0.3mil | 0" 0.25 0.1mil 50 100 0" 0.00 0.0mil | 0" 0.50 0.1mil 100 150 1" 0.50 0.1mil | 1" 0.75 0.2mil 150 200 2" 1.25 0.3mil | 2" 0.75 0.2mil 200 250 5" 2.00 0.6mil | 3" 1.00 0.3mil 250 300 10" 3.00 0.9mil | 4" 1.25 0.4mil 300 350 15" 4.25 1.2mil | 6" 1.50 0.5mil 350 400 22" 5.25 1.5mil | 8" 1.75 0.5mil 400 450 31" 6.50 1.9mil | 10" 2.00 0.6mil 450 500 41" 7.75 2.3mil | 12" 2.25 0.7mil 500 550 52" 9.00 2.6mil | 15" 2.50 0.7mil 550 600 66" 10.50 3.0mil | 18" 2.75 0.8mil 600 650 81" 12.00 3.5mil | 22" 3.25 0.9mil 650 700 98" 13.50 3.9mil | 26" 3.50 1.0mil 700 750 118" 15.00 4.4mil | 30" 3.75 1.1mil 750 800 140" 16.75 4.8mil | 35" 4.25 1.2mil 800 850 164" 18.50 5.4mil | 41" 4.50 1.3mil 850 900 191" 20.25 5.9mil | 47" 5.00 1.5mil 900 950 222" 22.25 6.5mil | 54" 5.50 1.6mil 950 1000 255" 24.25 7.1mil | 62" 6.00 1.7mil 1000
Proceed to PRACTICAL LONG RANGE RIFLE SHOOTING - PART II: OPTICS



